Category Archives: Utah

Walk by Myself: West Coast Road Trip Summary

So this writeup has been a long time in the making. A lot has happened since this trip that has made looking through this footage a long and difficult process. I kind of haven’t hated doing anything more than this video. It’s been emotionally draining looking through this footage day after day and reliving painful memories over and over again. I guess traveling can be painful when you lose your travel partner. Hopefully the end video gives some sort of justice to situation. I made it the best I could.

In addition to dealing with the whole emotional journey of the break up, I decided to record my own song for this video. Getting the recording equipment, learning recording software, writing music, and mixing it all together has been a process that has taken some time.

I was able to finally make my way through the footage and write a song that I was happy with. It was certainly not the video I had planned to make when I was shooting this trip. But I think there was enough footage that I was able to present a story that ultimately is true to where I was, where I am, and where I will be going. It’s kind of interesting to go through footage that you thought would look so much like one thing, and piece it together to look like something else. I guess my world was ripped apart and I had to pick up the pieces of this footage to tell a different story than I had anticipated.

Outside of the video, here is the rest of the standard road trip conclusion notes. It would be difficult to bother writing this up had I not had the majority of it completed.

First question I generally get asked is what was my favorite place. I can try to overgeneralize this answer but if you are really interested it’s probably best you read through the write ups from the trip.

The most beautiful single view was of Peyto Lake in Banff. A picture I took on this trip of Peyto Lake scored me over 200,000 views, which is my most viewed photograph ever. I think this is the second most beautiful nature view I have seen outside of the view at the top of the hike of Preikestolen in Norway.

My favorite park was Yellowstone. Cliche, I know. There’s a reason why this is the first national park in the world. This park is perfect. It doesn’t have the over the top views like you may see elsewhere in the world, but it is the most well rounded park I have been to. It has great landmarks. It has amazing animals. Diverse terrain. It’s huge. The layout is just right.

The most surprising nature moment was walking the Lady Bird Johnson Grove trail in the Redwood National and State Parks. The sun was setting and based on recommendation from the park rangers we took this hike. The 1.4-mile trail is short and easy and gives you a great view of the Redwoods. On this specific day there were low lying clouds that floated among the tops of the trees. You’re walking on this trail with your head craned upwards, staring at these enormous trees that extend into the heavens. The beauty of this place was unexpected and we caught it with some amazing circumstances. Sometimes on the trip you will have some spots that are worse than you imagined and sometimes you get some unexpected gems that stir your soul.

Crater Lake was solid. It’s a great park because you can drive right up to some amazing views, and there are a bunch of great trails that you can take. If you don’t know about Crater Lake I’d recommend giving it a look. It’s a huge gorgeous lake inside of a volcano.

As far as the cities I have to say San Francisco was my favorite. San Fran offers a lot. There’s a great touristy waterfront. It has its iconic spots. The food and drink is class. There are many diverse areas to hang out in. And not that it matters too much, but the residential and business sections for locals seem pretty cool as well.

The biggest surprise city for me was definitely Vegas. There’s the new Vegas, the old Vegas, and then the Vegas suburbs. The new Vegas is fancy. The old Vegas is gritty. The suburbs are awesomely authentic and nothing like the rest of Vegas. I recommend checking out all three of those places.

Seattle was a better time than I thought it would be. It’s definitely worth spending a day at the market and the Chihuly Museum.

Portland is a must stop but it was frustrating. Everything was spread out all over that city. It wasn’t as good as I thought it would be, probably because it’s so hyped, but it’s still a great city. Once you figure out how to navigate its quirks I imagine it would be a top spot.

You probably don’t have to go to Salt Lake, but I didn’t explore there much. Just grabbed Thai food and made plans to go to Vegas.

Another question that I get asked is how much it cost. I have again summarized the costs so that you can see how much a trip like this might be, and where the individual costs are coming from. I am sure there are some costs that I have overlooked but it is not necessary to give exact costs. One of the flights was paid for with credit card miles so it’s not included here. The costs are for two people and they are divided per person in the following chart. More or less travelers would affect these numbers in predictable ways. Everyone planning a trip will have to pay a little more for certain things but also a little less for certain things. Travel offers an infinite amount of options and ways to customize your trip so that it works for you.

West Coast Road Trip
West Coast Road Trip

As always this cost is just an example of this one specific trip. You can probably do the same trip for $700 or $70,000. Along the trip there were a lot of travelers who were simply hitchhiking their way across the country, spending their nights where they ended up, and eating simply. There were also plenty of travelers paying thousands of dollars for meals and expensive alcohols and driving fancy cars and shopping at expensive stores. Use this chart to give yourself an idea and feel free to move the numbers up or down to suit your trip. For example, we ate whatever we wanted and stayed at nice places. Just these two costs alone came out to about $5,000 or two-thirds of the total cost of the trip. If you eat and sleep cheaper then you can quickly cut off a bunch of the costs.

Normally this is where I would probably give some advice on the trip or talk about takeaways. I kind of can’t do that so easily since it has been so long since the trip. And with the changes to my life my memories will be recalled differently and my emotional response to certain events will be different. I had an awesome time on this road trip and an awesome time traveling this metaphoric road with my favorite travel buddy. I have had the best of times and have many great memories. Surely this isn’t the end of the road that we wanted, but we certainly never thought we would venture off on such a great trip at the start of it all.

Unfortunately I kind of arrived at a path that I did not want to go down. In life there are many important themes and ideals that you strive for. How important is love? How important is happiness? Which is more important than the other? What about comfort, success, family, work, friends, money, innovation, philanthropy, social impact, education, music, experiences, etc.? Everyone has different weights associated with all of these different topics. Maybe family is more important to you than money. Maybe success is more important than happiness. Maybe the opposite is true, etc. What is right for you is different than what is right for other people, and that is fine. For myself I guess I value truth very highly. I can’t imagine anything being more important than the truth. I arrived at a road where I had to choose truth over something that was also very important to me. I had to choose truth over love.

This whole topic of travel and truth and love reminds me of one of my favorite poems and I will end this post here. Its words have always resonated with me and it cannot be more appropriate at the moment. It is a poem called “The Wayfarer” written over a century ago by fellow Asbury Park local Stephen Crane.

The wayfarer,
Perceiving the pathway to truth,
Was struck with astonishment.
It was thickly grown with weeds.
“Ha,” he said,
“I see that none has passed here
In a long time.”
Later he saw that each weed
Was a singular knife.
“Well,” he mumbled at last,
“Doubtless there are other roads.”

I wish you courage in your travels,
Joe

Typical Yellowstone

Road trip 4: Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Nevada, California

All good things must come to an end. And for this trip, the end is sadly here. It’s been a wonderful time traveling around. Have definitely had a busy return from Canada. Since then I had my picture of Peyto Lake viewed by over 200,000 people. It is now the most viewed picture that I have ever taken, and I think it’s one of my better shots. Peyto Lake. Shout out to reddit.

2-Sep Glacier, MT

Coming off the previous two days of Jasper and Banff, Glacier was the next national park. I actually ended up grabbing a yearly pass for the national parks at Glacier because I would be visiting so many that it was cheaper that way. I never could justify buying a national park yearly pass in the past but with this trip it made sense.

Our trip to Glacier was a fortunate one. As we pulled up to our place to stay the night before we smelled and saw the haze of smoke in the air. Upon checking in the lady told us about how there were recent fires and they only just opened up the highway that we drove in on.

The fires led to the closure of the Going-to-the-Sun Road which drives from East Glacier to west Glacier and is really the core road you take to visit Glacier’s beautiful views and destinations. Luckily for us the road had reopened and we were able to take the drive.

The drive leads to stunning views such as the following.

Driving through Glacier
Driving through Glacier

Here’s a picture of Lake McDonald just outside of the Lake McDonald Lodge where we stopped for a quick bite.

Glacier National Park
Glacier National Park

After driving the Going-to-the-Sun Road and stopping at a few places to walk around we headed off for the trip to Yellowstone. We stopped for dinner at Casagranda’s Steakhouse in Butte, Montana. With the amount of cattle out here it was pretty necessary that I had a local free range ribeye at some point.

Local free range ribeye
Local free range ribeye

After dinner we finished off the drive to West Yellowstone without any problems.

3-Sep Yellowstone, WY

I’ve been looking forward to coming to Yellowstone for a long time. It’s a place you hear about all the time and wonder if it can live up to the hype. Overall, Yellowstone was the most complete day of nature that I had on the trip. It’s beautiful from the moment you enter. Everything about the park feels right. Everything seems in place. The wildlife is incredible. The views are great. Here’s an example of a typical Yellowstone scene. Bison are abundant and can be seen throughout the park at many portions of the park. We saw them at many ten different locations, sometimes as close as a few feet away.

Typical Yellowstone
Typical Yellowstone

And here’s a zoomed up shot because these guys are awesome. I really hoped to see bison on the trip but didn’t think it would be as easy as it is in Yellowstone. At times the bison blend into the background and look and act like large rocks. They have an ancient presence and aura amongst themselves.

The great bison
The great bison

The geysers and hot springs are spread throughout the park. They give the park an otherworldly sort of vibe. The hot springs seem like something from another planet. Old Faithful went off just as we were walking up to it which was perfect timing.

Old Faithful
Old Faithful

There are many great views of the park. This is Artist Point.

Yellow stone in Yellowstone
Yellow stone in Yellowstone

Another very different looking spot in Yellowstone is Mammoth Hot Springs. The hot springs on this occasion were home to a silly elk that felt like hanging around and posing for pictures.

King of the castle
King of the castle

You have to be careful driving in Yellowstone as there is so much wildlife that it often overflows into the roads. Here are some sheep.

Jaywalkers
Jaywalkers

After finishing both loops we tried to make it in time to check out the Grand Tetons but it was dark and another storm was rolling in. We headed down to Jackson to spend the night, and decided to leave Grand Teton for another trip.

4-Sep Salt Lake City, UT & Las Vegas, NV

We grabbed a coffee in Jackson and got on our way. We were debating spending time in Jackson before heading to Salt Lake City but the vibe of the city through me off. Some people seemed really nice but some people seemed really annoying. Like the guy who couldn’t pay for two coffees because he couldn’t find a card other than his American Express. Of course you can’t use American Express. You can’t use that card anywhere. I almost wanted to just pay his tab so that I could get to my espresso sooner but he eventually found some other card to pay for it. Or maybe I was annoyed by the girl who asked what a cold pressed coffee was, and after the barista told her she asked if she could have a half cold press and half drip coffee. Nooo. That’s not how it works. The barista said she couldn’t do that and eventually she ordered a drip coffee. Who knows what it was but we got out of Jackson and headed out to Salt Lake City.

We got to Salt Lake City and Summer Jam was going down. The Game and some other artists were performing. We talked about going but passed in favor of some Thai food. While eating we decided to head out of Salt Lake instead of spend time trying to find something to do. Our next stop was Las Vegas so we decided to zoom out of Salt Lake and make the drive out to Las Vegas and spend the night out.

We got into Vegas around 12:30 AM, just after midnight thanks to the time change. We took turns trying to nap in the car so that we would be ready to hang out in Vegas. Those couple hours were the only driving I didn’t do on the trip. It worked well enough. We checked into the Venetian thanks to a sweet deal from Hotwire which was an awesome stay.

Don’t really have many pictures from our time in Vegas because I didn’t want to carry a camera on me but here’s a pretty lousy shot of one of the halls we had to walk through to get to our suite.

Our hotel
Our hotel

We spend the night playing some roulette. Started to lose a couple bucks but fought our way back to make over 150% after tipping the cocktail waitresses and the dealers a bunch of our winnings. We walked the strip a little but mostly hung at the Venetian as it is one of the best casinos in the area.

5-Sep Las Vegas, NV

We got back to the hotel at 6:30 in the morning, but with a late check in were able to get plenty of sleep. We decided to spend the next day in Vegas over some southern food. Deviled eggs, biscuits, fried chicken, and grits.

Don't have too many shots of Vegas
Don’t have too many shots of Vegas

After fueling up we strolled the strip. We went in and out of shops. There was this one shop called Bauman Rare Books that had some sweet copies of some rare older books. I asked if they had any first edition Tolkien but they did not. The lady said they occasionally get them and they sell for $20,000 to $70,000 for copies of the Hobbit or the full Trilogy. I remember looking at these not too long ago and they weren’t that expensive but Tolkien is hot right now.

We went to the Bellagio and saw the water fountain show. There’s an Eiffel Tower in Vegas. Just like the faux works at the Venetian, the faux Eiffel Tower really makes you appreciate the real things. Vegas makes a good attempt but these works look cheap in comparison.

Fountains of Bellagio
Fountains of Bellagio

We decided to check out of the Venetian and head to the old strip. Everyone we talked to who visited or lived in Vegas told us we had to check out both the new strip and the old strip. So from the Venetian to the Golden Nugget we went.

We walked the old strip for a minute in search of food. In a sea of cheap looking buffets we stumbled upon Carson Kitchen, and with it, an entirely different Las Vegas. Carson Kitchen is an awesome local eatery with both inside seating and rooftop. It’s an example of what people are trying to do in the city. It’s an attempt to go from the flashy lights to a more subtle and authentic experience. The people working at that place all believe in what they are doing and we had a great meal there.

On recommendation from someone at Carson we headed to Atomic Liquors to grab a drink. It’s a dive bar with a hipster vibe three blocks off of the old Vegas strip. The flashy lights are there, but the locals are there talking about the various things they are doing to build the new Vegas.

We eventually made our way back to the old strip and back to the Golden Nugget. The differences between old Vegas and new Vegas are pretty apparent. Different people. Different vibes. Both worth experiencing. It’s flashy vs. gritty. Regardless, the money is won and lost in the same way. After a whole bunch of spins of the roulette wheel we end up calling it a night. It was around 3 in the morning and we had another drive in the morning.

6-Sep Death Valley, CA

In the drive from Vegas to Yosemite we didn’t have any destination picked out. We decided to head out to Death Valley. First we rolled back through the area near Carson Kitchen and grabbed some brunch at a place called Eat. It’s another local restaurant that has that authentic vibe that the area seems to be building on. Food is on point and the house coffee is even pretty awesome.

After fueling up went from one desert to another even more serious desert. Here’s a view of the valley from the peak at Dante’s View.

Death Valley
Death Valley

The drive around the valley looks otherworldly. The temperature seems that way too. At the hottest the thermometer in the car read 106 degrees Fahrenheit, but the temperature shifts around so quickly depending on exactly where you are. The high for the rest of the week was 115-117. Nights dip back down into the 70s here. I couldn’t imagine too many things living here but saw a pack of about four coyotes. No picture as I was driving but they seem like really cool animals.

7-Sep Yosemite, CA

Yosemite is the final stop of the trip. We wake up to the smell of smoke. Fires are back in the area. The haze from the smoke covers the whole air. The smoke definitely obscured the views of Yosemite but the visit was still beautiful. The park was packed for the Labor Day holiday.

The drive through the park is pretty subdued compared to some of the other parks that we saw but there is some wildlife around. We saw another bear. Apparently they are something to watch out for. This one pretty carelessly crossed the road a little while in front of us.

Bear
Bear

The drive through the park leads you to the valley. The iconic walls of the cliffs out here are gorgeous. Although the layout of the park is a little weird (they advise you to park in the Village and take busses around), you can still see some pretty awesome views.

Yosemite
Yosemite

There were some mule deer in the area.

Deer
Deer

8-Sep Fly back from San Francisco

So that’s about it. Have to be up in about an hour to head to the airport to head home. The trip has been both very fast in that we are leaving for home soon but very slow in that some of these memories seem so long ago. The trip was awesome. We stuck mostly to a pretty rigorous schedule and saw and experienced some of the greatest things this country has to offer. It’s a trip that I will draw inspiration and experience from for the rest of my life. I look forward to spending some time reflecting on the trip and getting back home to see everyone.

In case the beers get lost or break in transit, here’s what I’m attempting to bring home.

Hope these don't break
Hope these don’t break

Will get a final write up done when I’m unpacked and settled back home.

Cheers,
Joe